Ashoka
The Ashoka diamond is a unique cut featuring 62 facets. Born, bred and cut in New York, the Ashoka is founded and crafted by the William Goldberg family - a fellow family-run business. Exclusive to Boodles in Europe, the Ashoka cut makes the diamond appear 30 percent visually larger and more brilliant than an emerald cut diamond of the same carat weight. Due to the cut’s precise 62 facets, it can take up to six months to cut and polish, and fewer than one percent of rough diamonds can achieve the Ashoka shape. Only the finest rough stones that have a longer shape can be transformed into this cut making them exceptional among the extraordinary.
A Legendary Cut
When legendary diamantaire William Goldberg first encountered the original Ashoka diamond, he was mesmerised. Together with his son, Saul, they spent years perfecting the cut, securing the exclusive patent in 1999. Our family partnership with the Goldbergs, founded on shared values and trust, spans over generations and often sees deals sealed over friendly dinners.
Heritage & Craftsmanship
Like many great partnerships, our relationship with Ashoka diamonds took place by chance. During an unscheduled meeting while sourcing stones in New York, seeking out precious stones in New York. Jody Wainwright recalls the moment clearly. “We loved the Ashoka cut from the first time we saw it. And we knew our customers would love it too.” With a shared passion for exceptional diamonds — and a shared sense of family values — Boodles had soon shaken hands with Saul Goldberg on becoming the only European jeweller entrusted to work with Ashoka.
There’s something about the Ashoka cut that’s really uplifting. People often speak of diamonds as if they have life. You don’t see it in a photograph, because of course a picture is static. But when you look at an Ashoka close-up, the way the light plays is just spectacular. For me, it’s an emotional response.
The Cutting Process
The Ashoka cut follows the Golden Mean — a perfect ratio cherished by Renaissance artists like Leonardo Da Vinci. Achieving this ratio in a diamond is incredibly challenging, as most rough stones lack the correct proportions, or too many carats would need to be cut away. But in the skilled hands of Master Gem Cutter Willy Lopez (pictured below) at the Goldberg workshop in New York, the Ashoka cut comes to life, transforming rough stones into radiant, mesmerising masterpieces.
The Design
Unique to Boodles in Britain, Ashoka cut diamonds pair the elegance of an emerald cut with the radiance of a brilliant cut. So they sit low on the finger, but sing like a much bigger stone. Very few diamonds can even be cut this way: some estimate the number to be as low as one in thousands. But when one is suitable, you’ll see something that really takes your breath away. And you’ll be reminded of what makes a diamond so special.
A Family Partnership
The connection between the Boodles and Goldberg families stretches back to the 1960s and remains strong today. To truly understand the Ashoka craft, the Goldberg family invited Geordie Wainwright, the sixth generation of the Boodles family, to work with them in New York. Geordie reflects, “Having spent time at the wheel actually cutting Ashokas, it really makes you value the immense beauty, fire, and brilliance of this cut, as well as the craftsmanship and patience it demands to create an Ashoka diamond.”
Diamonds are symbols of love and trust. It’s important we never forget that.
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